Shein to be suspended in France following uproar over sales of ‘childlike’ sex dolls

PARIS (CNN) — France has said it will suspend Shein’s access to the French market following a headline-grabbing scandal over sales of “childlike” sex dolls.

The government started proceedings Wednesday to ban Shein’s French website “for the time necessary for the platform to show to the authorities that all of its products are finally in conformity with our laws and regulations,” the finance ministry said.

Over the weekend the country’s anti-fraud office accused the Chinese-founded e-commerce giant of allowing third-party sellers to hawk “childlike sex dolls” on its French platform.

Shein said Wednesday that it was suspending sales of all third-party products in France to “guarantee the full respect of French law and the highest standards of consumer protections.” The company said it had taken the decision independently of the government move to ban its site.

That move came just as the company opened a brick-and-mortar store in Paris, its first in the world, amid a storm of outrage in France over the scandal and the platform’s reputation for throwaway fashion.

Shein set up shop in BHV, one of the French capital’s most famous department stores, and will later roll out its clothing range in five of France’s well-known Galeries Lafayette malls. Galeries Lafayette and BHV both belong to the Société des Grands Magasins (SGM) group.

The opening Wednesday was marred by protests but also saw large numbers of people queuing to get their hands on Shein’s products.

“The city of Paris reaffirms that Shein is contrary to its values,” Paris Deputy Mayor Nicolas Bonnet-Oulaldj told journalists outside BHV Tuesday before the planned suspension. “We ask the Minister of the Economy to go further than just making threats and to ban the Shein platform in France.”

Such is the strength of feeling around Shein’s touchdown in France that Galeries Lafayette published a statement in late October slamming SGM’s decision to force Shein – a brand “in contradiction with their offer and their values” – upon them.

In retaliation, SGM Tuesday ordered five of the Galeries Lafayette malls to rebrand as BHV, according to CNN affiliate BFMTV, dealing a crippling blow to a household name brand in France.

“Our capital cannot become the showcase for disposable goods and exploitation,” Ian Brossat, a senator for Paris from the French Communist Party, said in a statement Monday. “This partnership goes against all the commitments taken by France and Paris to more firmly regulate the fashion industry.”

This week, Frédéric Merlin, head of SGM, pushed back against criticism of the deal with Shein, pointing to its popularity with consumers.

“We’re speaking of a brand that is regularly bought by 25 million French customers, who are today considered bad people because they buy from this platform?” he said in an interview Tuesday with RTL radio.

But critics believe that Paris’ reputation for haute couture, bespoke elegance and exclusive design couldn’t be further from the disposable culture epitomized by Shein’s ultra-low-price, accessible-to-all clothing.

Some see a double irony in Shein making landfall in Paris, home to the eponymous landmark climate agreement signed in 2016, given wide concerns over its environmental impact.

The Chinese platform has become the bogeyman figurehead of the fast-fashion industry, accused of paying scant regard to sustainable manufacturing and the environmental costs of mass global shipping. Shein, however, says its model allows it to avoid waste and overproduction.

In recent years, Paris has sought to make itself a leader on “green” issues, championing bicycle travel and low-carbon business practices, and making sustainability a key pillar of the 2024 Paris Olympic Games.

Evacuate the building

In response to Shein’s arrival, 12 brands have already announced they will remove their products from BHV’s shelves, among them prominent French clothes makers like Figaret and Armor Lux, known for their rootedness in French design and manufacturing.

Perhaps the biggest name to distance itself from BHV is Disney, with Disneyland Paris abandoning plans to design BHV’s famous Christmas window displays this year, according to CNN affiliate BFMTV.

On Monday, BHV director Karl-Stéphane Cottendin played down the significance of the brands’ departure from a flock of “more than 2,000 brands” in BHV’s stable. “Everyone is free to make their own decisions,” he said in an interview with BFMTV. “We have no problem at all with that.”

Opposition to Shein’s arrival in Paris was clear from the earliest announcement of its partnership with BHV. But the mall’s boss has looked to exploit the controversy.

A storeys-high poster showing SMG president and BHV owner Merlin with Shein boss Donald Tang was hung on the BHV façade in Paris last week, emblazoned with the words: “The poster that we shouldn’t have made?”